Відео

NEVER use 4x4 wood posts only schedule 40 thick metal posts for any wood or chain link fencing they will never blow over from strong winds more money but worth not having to hassle with these senseless wooden 4x4 posts that ultimately rot & snap in the winds.

Cramer is the best!

50 / 50 worked perfectly for me - thank you!

Fantastic advice. I Didn't even need to unclip the flush unit just put my hand around the seal and found a large bit of plastic from one of those blue freshners. Fixed👍

It might be a good idea to get a microphone if you want to do youtube fulltime. The echo is really bad, and makes it hard to understand what you're saying at times. The register/tone of your voice, combined with the echo, is a bit painful. (it's hard to understand the words due to the echo, so I turn up the volume. Then it's sort of high pitched or reverberates or something and is unpleasant) Thanks for the guide

Can you recommend me some good electricians and builders in the Manchester area? Thanks

Surely you need to dig down to clay / rock? Not just laying on top of soil?

Great video. Very informative and detailed. I'd add that the double check valve is a requirement for most, if not all of the water authorities in the UK and you must have one. As in the video, you can get them as a separate item but it is also possible to get a tap with the DCV built in. They're a bit more expensive but saves that extra piece in the line and those extra joins.

Where to buy the Wickes ?

Marrette new wires to ends of short ones !!THE END!!!

Thank you so much for this video. If I am digging deeper into the ground and building onto a clay base, would I still need to use the type 1 + building sand, etc? Thank you!

Hi! Thanks for such a great video; really helpful! I was planning to use 50mm actis hybris with an air gap to 30mm insulated plasterboard. Is that totally overkill?

Mate I’ve been watching your videos for the last couple of years and you have helped me massively with my work around the house. These bathroom videos could not come at the right time! Im just about to finish my bathroom and you have done pretty much similar to what I have👍🏻👍🏻 great video!

problem 1. Waste of time. Wait for an hours? haha p2. Drill into the brick for strength. if you hang a 30kg punch bag on that, I assure you your top 3 layers will crack. I saw the cement crack already (right side). p3. even if you wrap the bolt with carboard it will still hold 100KG at that 60mm depth into the wall. Good point is that I do see practical use for it. Some installation does get loose, and this resin will be useful for a quick fix

I wish I knew plumbing / electrics so I could do this and rip out our bathroom🤣

Any tips on refreshing old grout?

Doing 6.4 m x 4.7 m 230mm high concrete delivered and pumped 1700 hopefully that's a good deal. 160 feet from road side to site needed 8 m3 16 tonnes of concrete

dewalt is an expensive tool also. hardly a diy project. if you can afford dewalt you can afford makita.

Thanks for the video😎

Where's part 2 of fitting the bathroom?

Checklist created 😅

Eveb with tools i cannot do this

Again, fantastic video, thanks. Not sure if I missed it, but are the roof noggins meant to be lower than the rafters to ensure that airflow? I can't quite see in the video. Say I have 5x2 rafters, I assumed for cold roof I use 4x2 noggins (which is what I've done) and will have 75mm PIR boards at the bottom of the rafters. Is that right?

Fantastic info, as always. I'm currently building my own garden office and just about to put PIR insulation boards into my walls. A friend (experienced DYIer I guess) said I need to have a gap between the board and external OSB for ventilation. Please could someone confirm / correct that, as I've not seen anyone suggest similar? I followed the standard construction with C24 treated 4x2, OSB on the outside and EPDM membrane. Planning to put the 75mm PIR boards all the way in to touch the OSB, fill in gaps with expanding foam, leaving circa 20mm gap between PIR and plasterboard (wiring will go there). Does that sound right? Also, would anyone bother with a vapour barrier before plasterboard, if I have no plumbing, unlikely to have a kettle in there. I will do some exercise, but will then make sure the room is ventilated. Thanks in advance.

great video. did I miss the bit about sealing the insulation sheets where they meet a the edges? or simply not needed with this type?

The hole I have is smaller than this. Should I make the hole bigger so that I can fit a piece of wood through snd stuff?

Looking good! 👍Spraying the block with glass cleaner before tooling is another way to keep it clean!

Gutted you didn't give a full detail view of sealing behind taps! Took me 5 attempts to seal behind a sink (<20mm between raised sink & where the seal was), and even then I only managed an "it'll do" finish...

I just use my mower to pick up after scarifying

Can an oscillating multitool be used instead of a router to make a cutout for the hinge?

This is definitely one of my top two Norfolk based silicon sealant videos: ua-cam.com/users/shortsidXeHB6zAbQ

Top tip don't use you germy finger or you'll get mould. Use alcohol wipe on tools

Great vid,good work

I’ve had multiple houses dozens of newly plastered rooms and have never once mist coated and never had an issue either

Could you do this at the end of september, beginning of october?

If my ceiling is slanted upwards and not flat how can I fasten that top piece to my wall rather than the ceiling?

Great video. How would the max height be determined if I were to build one on a sloping plot? ~12” drop over 7mtrs

Siliconing.......my nemesis!! Thanks for this video. Will definitely apply your tips the next time I do it 👍

Cheap and nasty. Those flexible pipes just harbour condensation, which will lead to mould and other crap. Fan mounted directly onto joists will transfer all vibration straight to the ceiling and into the house. Spend less on tatoos and more on research.

Great advice as I’ve got to do the exact content of your video on my garage soon. Thanks Paul from the uk 🇬🇧

Sorry fella seen these silicone blocks reviewed on youtube before (plumb parts did one last year) they are garbage the finish is rough as a badgers arse. You made the same mistake he did....not showing the silicone block finish close up. 😜Fugi kit with no water is the best solution.

If the house has a towel rail there is no need to make up a filler with a flexi hose as the inhibitor can be tipped into the top of the towel rail after it has been drained. I always like to hear new tips eeven after 30 years!!

What would make it more easy for all novices like me is list of items with links to them from wickes etc.

I wouldn't want to use that carrier bag.

Bought one of these blocks also after watching a review on Plumberparts, like others have mentioned, mine went in the dustbin after two attempts to use it. Couldn't get any decent finish using it. Found it too bulky, leaving a poor finish. Went back to the normal cheap silicone ones.

Couldn't find a replacemant stopcock (22mm MDPE to 15mm Copper) but fixed it instead :-) Thank You

Been using loctite 55 since 2006 on all my projects: house rebuilds to hull throughs in boats. Never fails.

The straights are pretty easy, please show how to do the corners.

Hi Cameron, been quite sickly, hence no comments recently. Again, cracking video, I worked with a guy who was called Mastick Nick, he did all the silicon work on a shout. He loved the old wet finger stuff, good to see there's an easier way (and cleaner!). He always sunk a lot of failover juice come breaktime, stunned he could even get it straight.As always, detailed example and great tutorage throughout, which is so helpful. Keep 'em up Cam, Paui...